I live and write on Lingít Aaní, and gratefully acknowledge the past, present and future caretakers of this beautiful place, the Jilkaat Kwaan and Jilkoot Kwaan.

There was frost on the car when I headed out to Morning Muscles at six and a nearly full moon. The Chilkat Center was packed with fit ladies. The talk afterwards was about the new toilets going in just down the hill at Portage Cove for cruise ship passengers. Apparently the tourist latrine will be twenty-feet tall, effectively blocking the view that Haines is famous for both ways and taking front and center in future postcards. As one of the ladies said in the parking lot after class, “I think the Planning Commission needs a woman,” then surely she could have pointed this out.