I live and write on Lingít Aaní, and gratefully acknowledge the past, present and future caretakers of this beautiful place, the Jilkaat Kwaan and Jilkoot Kwaan.

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Lighting Season

Lighting Season

I love lights in the windows this time of year. Back in college, in Vermont one of my favorite things was a late afternoon walk up the hill from Middlebury to campus, when the yellow lights glowed in the windows of old white houses, the kind with pumpkins and mums on...

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A Chilkoot Trail

 I can't cut up meat and wrap it while I'm still on my first cup of coffee, but Chip can. He has been up for a few hours, and the kitchen looks like a butcher shop and smells like clean blood. The dogs are watching him nervously from the hall. They always seem to be...

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Postcard Perfect Toilets

There was frost on the car when I headed out to Morning Muscles at six and a nearly full moon. The Chilkat Center was packed with fit ladies. The talk afterwards was about the new toilets going in just down the hill at Portage Cove for cruise ship passengers....

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Women are Better

You know how when wives, say, accidentally leave a coffee cup on the hood of the car at Mountain Market and drive off as it bounces in the mud, oblivious, and how husbands tend to make a lot of jokes about that? As if forgetting is something men never do?  So what is...

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Fall and Flamenco

It's not just the snow on the mountains that signal winter is coming. You can tell the weather is closing in and fall is in the air when 20 women show up for Morning Muscles at 6 am on a Tuesday morning to have Marnie put us through our paces with weights and sit ups...

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Alaska Day Means We Are American, Not Russian.

Until October 18, 1867 when Alaskans looked out any window they all saw Russia. Maybe that's what confused the Crazy Man Running for Senate and his thugs who handcuffed my friend Tony yesterday for asking him a question. Anyway, today we celebrate where our connection...

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