I live and write on Lingít Aaní, and gratefully acknowledge the past, present and future caretakers of this beautiful place, the Jilkaat Kwaan and Jilkoot Kwaan.

The Anniversary of the Sinking of the Princess Sophia

On October 26, 1918 the Princess Sophia sank on Vanderbilt Reef, between Haines and Juneau, killing 353 people, many leading citizens of the Yukon and Alaska.  It is a tragedy that is hard to wrap your head around. Ken Coates and Bill Morrison have written about it in...

Bear Spotted in the Area

They put up bear warning signs on trailheads, so why not on telephone poles in town? There is more bear sign on townsite streets than area trails, and now there is a wounded, big brown bear in the bushes across the street from the school, who kept the children in at...

A Chilkoot Trail

 I can’t cut up meat and wrap it while I’m still on my first cup of coffee, but Chip can. He has been up for a few hours, and the kitchen looks like a butcher shop and smells like clean blood. The dogs are watching him nervously from the hall. They always...

Postcard Perfect Toilets

There was frost on the car when I headed out to Morning Muscles at six and a nearly full moon. The Chilkat Center was packed with fit ladies. The talk afterwards was about the new toilets going in just down the hill at Portage Cove for cruise ship passengers....

Women are Better

You know how when wives, say, accidentally leave a coffee cup on the hood of the car at Mountain Market and drive off as it bounces in the mud, oblivious, and how husbands tend to make a lot of jokes about that? As if forgetting is something men never do?  So what is...